Friday, 2 October 2015

Chanel Authenticity Guide

Purchasing your first Chanel can be a very scary thing, because let’s face it- it’s the price tag that makes it a scary one. Also, the prices go up, esp on the classic pieces. Because of these factors, many try to buy pre-owned pieces to save money.
To be completely honest with you, I have never purchased pre-loved~~BUT I feel that I know the brand inside & out, and am knowledgeable enough to share my information/tips with you so that you don’t regret your purchases. Yes, if you can~ I first and foremost recommend to purchase directly from Chanel or reuputable department stores like Saks and Bloomingdales. Why? Because they are large {luxury} purchases, and very pricey. A question that I hear often is,
“Gosh, how can you justify the price tag?”
 Before you judge, I agree…spending so much on a material item made out of leather and cloth can be superficial and frivolous. People judge all the time. As long as you aren’t using money on yourself that you shouldn’t, incurring debt upon yourself, and if you have the resources to do so, I don’t think it is frivolous at all. Why? Chanel is timeless, and it will never go out of style. It is a brand that is passed down from generation to generation. I believe anyone in fashion will tell you the same. Instead of making 3-4 handbag purchases a year on styles that will likely fade within the next few years, I think it is wise to save all of that money and buy ONE great bag that encompasses your style.. and rock it… often, & well. There is nothing that compares to the look of timeless. Just take care of your Chanel WELL  to preserve its lifespan- (that’s why I’m sharing my how-tos and tips here also, because
Out of all of the Chanel I own, I decided to use these three handbags below as visuals, because they are the two most timeless designs of  Chanel- The classic JUMBO flap and the cerf tote.



The double C lock
is also referred to as the ‘Mademoiselle’ lock, because Coco Chanel never married. The C’s in every authentic Chanel bag interlock the way they are pictured below-  the right C should always be over the top left C hook.


There are four grommets (holes) in each flap. On jumbos the four grommets are side by side- { OO         OO}.  On the small and medium/large flaps, the grommets are right under one another-{one hole with one right under it}.Under the grommets closest to the edge of the flap you will see this tiny little stich holding the flap to the body of the bag together. ALWAYS look for this tiny little detail!



Stitching
The quilted stitch design was designed by Coco Chanel to resemble the quilted jackets of horse jockeys back then. Look carefully, and notice that all of the stitching always matches up with each other (esp where the back pocket is) There should be at least ten stitches PER inch. Anything under that is simply not authentic



If you want to get really nitty gritty, look at the bottom of the bag. This applies only to the jumbo- small medium/large of the classic flap is smooth on the bottom in both caviar and lambskin. As for the JUMBO CAVIARS -the bottom should be clean and flat, and there should be a seperation in the right and left partitions of the bottom. 1 perfect diamond consisting of 4 smaller perfect diamonds should be cut directly in half right down the center. *Note*- on jumbo lambskins it is completely smooth on the bottom with no separation partition.



Serial Numbers 
Serial stickers were first introduced in 1984 and continue to be used today. Bags made before this time, don’t  have stickers.
6 digit codes-bag was made some time between 1984 and 1986.
7 digit codes- handbag was made between 1986 and 2004.
ANY 8 digit codes means it’s a model, made in 2005, still being made TODAY.
8 digits is the max amount of digits you should see on a Serial Number. Anything over 8 digits is not authentic.
Authenticity Cards 
The “card system” was introduced the same time as the serial sticker. There should be absolutely no rainbowy “hologram” type effect. It is made out of plastic and feels just like a credit card.
As you see below, the serial number on the bag, and the number on the authenticity card, ALWAYS match.
It always comes with a small 2×2 creme envelop with info on the bag.


More details about hardware- Every single zipper pull has CHANEL (in all caps) printed on only the top face of the pull. Naturally, the color of its hardware will always match the rest of the bag’s hardware. The straps you see below (which come with every cerf tote) are the same leather- its pebbly caviar feel matches.


If you were to open your tote at the turn lock and take your first peek inside the bag, that serial number will always be at the TOP right hand corner of the bag. ( I pulled it out below so you could get a better look). *NOTE- on the reissues it is aways at the bottom left hand corner.



 As you probably know, Coco Chanel came from an orphanage, & her caretakers wore chains around their waists which held their keys. That is the meaning behind the chain. In a lot of bags made before 2008 there is no stitching in the leather interwoven in the chain– at all. If there is stitching on the interwoven leather in the chains, it will ONLY be on one side


The last thing that I want to firmly say, is that if I were ever to even consider buying preloved, I would not even consider it if it did have the original box, dustbag, and card. These things hold value in the bag+if the person took care of the bag very well with minor wear=it looks new/comes just as you would purchase at Chanel, then I would go for it. Always look at every single detail including the lining. The lining should always be very firm against the bag and not baggy in any way at all.
In conclusion, remember:
-hardware including double C lock, zipper pulls etc
-serial #s / authenticity cards
-the stitching/quality & craftsmanship




Source: hautecookie

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